Wednesday, December 24, 2014

De donde viene la miel?

I was glad to have access to the Mazda 2013 – that’s right, we now have to distinguish between our two Mazdas by year because we have two of them. I can’t believe how much we achieve and it all gets overshadowed so quickly by the next big thing we have to do, project we have to redo, crisis we have to solve, grant we have to win.  Right now I’m feeling insecure about my work, and a lot of pressure to kick some major ass this week and impress Curt. 

So last Saturday I took that Mazda 2013 and drove down that route that has become so common to me, like a piece of “home” here, outside of Xela, past the rotunda, round the corner to the Cantel and Zunil, coasting out of those beautifully green highlands and into the tropical heat of the coast. I played podcasts and Radiohead music and hung out with this crazy head of mine and all of its thoughts. Oh how I love the solitude, whether it’s with coffee in the clouds or a cold agua pura in the coast.

I stayed at Noes house that night, although there wasn’t much to report. Its crazy how much slower life moves out there in the rural farmlands of the coast. Its quiet. Its like being at grandmas house. Theres not a lot to do but sit around, play with the kiddos, eat a little bit and swing in the hammock before you go to bed. I wonder how different it will all be in another generation – will these hammocks still swing or will they be replaced by western-imported recliner chairs? Will the kiddos’ favorite satuday night game still be scooting across the concrete floor? Will the chickens still eat the scraps thrown out beside the pila? At the same time that the life moves slow, the industrial evolution is happening ever so fast. The cocacola sold down the street cheaper than water, the television blaring Toy Story 3, the neighbors that just pulled up in a 2014 Hummer. Its like this place, and perhaps all the rural places of the world, are some giant mixing bowl where all the great fads of the world slyly sneak their way in, for better or for worse – what I wouldn’t give to see some raw food fad slip into the local scene.

It doesn’t always make for a good mix - the Catholic priest steadfastly upholding community morals on Sundays, trying to maintain attention while a Miley Cyrus concert blares on the television at the tienda next door. We have passed the point of return – there is no preserving that ideal bucolic life in some static vacuum. I believe that. Change is the way of the world, and the best we can do is vow to aid and abet in making the most peaceful, just and environmentally sound new mix of rural life.
Noe Estrada is one of the best smallholder farmers I have ever met.  An orphan of sorts, raised by grandparents and earning his first quetzales working long hours on a foreign-owned plantation. Noe stuffed those $2/day earnings deep into his teenage pockets until he had enough to buy a piece of land for himself, the parcel he currently calls home with his wife and three daughters. 

But this is no typical 18 acre plot suffering the ails of chemically-drowned, monoculture corn farming. Noe grows corn, sesame, Chaya, avocado, limes, a variety of local herbs and even sweet potato. And unlike the rest of the farmers on the block, Noe is not subject to the cruel limitations of the once-a-year market run by coyotes (middlemen) who pay – if you’re lucky – $0.12/pound of corn.  Noé kept stuffing those few quetzales in his pocket, saving enough over the years to build himself an irrigation system. He plants a new corn crop every two weeks, allowing him to collect a continual corn harvest throughout the year and enjoy a hefty price increase for his corn in the dry season. And when the coyotes still refuse to offer a good price, Noe uses his corn harvest to make elote, a local favorite sold to his neighbors throughout the year.

“Why limit yourself to such a fluctuating, unproductive crop?” Noe tells me, speaking of the tradition of monoculture corn across the region. “Diversify, that’s what I tell my neighbors.” Enter the most beautiful, perhaps smallest and most productive part of Mother Earth’s great ecosystem: honeybees.  While beekeeping and honey production may be one of the most lucrative options for smallholder farmers in the region – few inputs required, low labor costs, low competition – most farmer won’t give it a shot for fear of the infamous behavior of the bees, explains Noe.


Noe was not scared. Working on a sesame harvest one year for some extra cash, he met a fellow farmer and friend who was raising bees. “I’ll give you one box, with ten panales and a Queen. Just try it.” his friend said. That one box turned into two, and the next year two boxes will turned into four, and soon Noe had his own little colony of honebees. Today, Noe has three different forested areas where he keeps colonies of bees, a total of about 150 boxes full of queens and worker bees working ceaselessly, producing a sweet, simple, healthy and pure product that he can sell locally to his neighbors and for export – literally tripling his annual income. 

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